What is Hyaluronic Acid?

Skincare brand Dermaviduals have recently launched Hyaluronic Acid Liposome Plus. This product is unique in Australia as it contains HA that can penetrate the skin’s surface. We will be hearing a lot more about Hyaluronic Acid in the future so we decided to find out more.

Claudia Martius is the National Training Manager for Dermaviduals and shared her expertise with us to explain “What is Hyaluronic Acid?”

What is Hyaluronic Acid?

Hyaluronic Acid, or HA belongs to the group of glycosaminoglycans. They are large water retaining molecules that form a gel-like substance.

Is this naturally found in the body?

Yes, throughout connective tissue and in our joints. HA is most abundant in the extracellular matrix of the dermis, where it is responsible for keeping the skin supple and plump.

Why should we put it on our skin?

HA has fantastic moisturising benefits for the skin. The molecular structure functions like a sponge, allowing for extensive hydration. Keeping water in the skin is equally important as the use of the correct lipids will slow down trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL or dehydration). Without water, the skin can’t function properly and quickly becomes scaly, dry and red.

What kinds of skin conditions would benefit from using products containing  Hyaluronic Acid?

HA is beneficial for most skin conditions because it helps to slow down the TEWL. This is especially true if you live or work in a dry atmosphere. However if you want to use in serum form, don’t forget to use a lipid-containing moisturiser on top to seal the moisture in. An easy way to visualise this is to think of a beautiful plump grape, however without water it will quickly shrivel up and turn into a raisin.

Is there anyone who should avoid this skincare ingredient?

I would not recommend using HA on active rosacea. Rosacea prone skin already has a highly increased enzyme activity and any watery substance can aggravate this condition.

Does it effectively adsorb into the skin, or is it just a topical solution?

HA is a huge molecule and because of its size, it is unable to penetrate the stratum corneum. It topically bonds to the keratin of the horny cells via hydrogen bridges. However, dermaviduals Hyaluronic Acid Liposome Plus has an increased bonding ability. The liposomes help the HA to dock between the horny cells thereby forming stronger, deeper bonds.

Until 40 years ago this was described as a goo molecule – would that be an accurate description?

Well, it is a sticky, gel-like substance. But HA has many more functions in the connective tissue than just holding water. It is essential for life.

What can you tell us about dermaviduals Hyaluronic Acid Liposome Plus, what makes this product different?

The difference is due to phosphatidycholine, a lipid comprised in all cell membranes. The liposomes in the product  are made of this lipid substance and fluidise the epidermal lipid bilayers, opening a pathway for the HA to bond more deeply into the stratum corneum.